18TH CENTURY STAYS

Want to build a pair of historically accurate stays? Here is a collection of patterns, fabrics,  tapes, boning, etc. that you can choose from.

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SUGGESTED SUPPLIES LIST (please consult the pattern or book you are working from for necessary amounts):
  • Exterior fabric - 1 piece of light to medium weight worsted wool or linen.
  • Fabric for Canvases- 2 pieces of sturdy medium to heavy weight linen 
  • Fabric for buckrams- small pieces of linen canvas, linen made into buckram, or sturdy linen tickings.
  • Fabric for Linings- 1 piece of light to medium weight linen in a plain woven checked, bleached, or unbleached.
  • Threads (Linen) - We recommend buying a large spool for your channel thread and using it for your basting thread, also. 
    • For seaming: 18/3 or 30/3 Tailor's Thread
    • For channels: 50/3 or 35/2
      This thread can be in natural or might also match the outer fabric. (Stays of the last quarter of the 18th century which might be made of cotton could be stitched in finer threads.)
    • For basting shapes: 50/3 or 80/3, White or Natural
  • Sewing Tools - Needles (sharps/betweens in sizes 5-8), pins, scissors, beeswax, awl, thimble, pliers (optional), pattern weights (optional), chisel (optional).
  • Boning- artificial baleen 
  • Binding- Linen, Cotton or Wool Tape
  • "Stay tape"-  1/4 inch wide linen twill or other tape/ribbon for covering seams. 
  • Lacing Cord- linen or cotton cord