Black & Pumpkin Checked Silk Taffeta
Chinese, Indian, Persian, English & French “taffety” (taffeta) were common silks advertised in the 18th and 19th centuries. They were available in a variety of colors and patterns, including changeable, “chines” or warp-printed, striped, checked, or patterned. They were woven with a plain weave, and varied only in their width or number of yarns in the warp and weft.
After the American Revolution, great quantities of silk came directly from China, including taffetas, satins and lustrings. Simple patterns could be woven, such as stripes or checks, as in this Black & Pumpkin Checked Silk Taffeta. The Victoria & Albert holds a French Merchant's silk book of 1764 which shows a variety of patterns.
Checks offered color and interest, while still maintaining a cost within the reach of the middlin' consumer. Likewise, the manufacturer could use these checked grounds to add brocaded or embroidered motifs for more affluent customers. Silk was available to all social classes in varying qualities; those with less wealth could purchase cheaper silks or find silks from the second-hand market.
