Chinese, Indian, Persian, English & French “taffety” or taffeta, such as this Burgundy & Butter Yellow Figured Silk, were commonly advertised in the 18th and 19th centuries. Woven plain, they were made in a variety of colors, some changeable, some “chine” or warp printed, some with stripes, checks and patterns. All were woven in a like fashion, varying only in their width or number of silk yarns in the warp and weft. After the American Revolution, great quantities of silk came to the states directly from China, including taffetas, satins and lustrings. Simple patterns could be woven, such as stripes or checks, and extra float yarns were introduced to create patterns as simple as dots, and as elaborate as flowers, vines and lace motifs. The Victoria & Albert holds a
French Merchant's silk book of 1764 that shows a variety of silks, including simple patterned ones such as this Burgundy & Butter Yellow Figured Silk.
Patterns like these could be left plain or embroidered over, and were especially desirable for menswear. Silk was available to all social classes in varying qualities; for instance, those with less wealth might have purchased cheaper silks or found silks from the second hand market.
